Vintage Art Deco Jewelry 1920–1939: Key Motifs and Hallmarks
Art Deco jewelry from roughly 1920–1939 blends bold geometry with exquisite craftsmanship. If you love clean lines and architectural detail, Deco pieces are a rewarding category to collect.
Design Hallmarks
- Geometry: Symmetry, stepped forms, and bold shapes (navette, target rings, panel bracelets).
- Metals: Platinum and early white gold dominate; fine milgrain and filigree are common.
- Gems: Old European-cut diamonds; calibre-cut sapphires, rubies, and onyx for graphic contrast.
Authenticity & Era Cues
- Construction: Hand-cut filigree, crisp milgrain, and open galleries for light.
- Cuts: Old European, old mine, transitional, and single-cut accents.
- Stamps: Metal fineness marks vary by country; maker’s marks where applicable.
Condition Checks
Examine filigree for losses, thin shanks from past resizing, and secure settings around calibre stones. Original finish with sharp details is especially desirable.
Resizing & Care
Resizing ornate bands requires expertise to preserve patterns. Clean gently and avoid aggressive polishing that can soften edges and milgrain.